Ana María Donneys / Tropical Ranger

This Caturra coffee is processed using the Tropical Ranger method, developed by the Primitivo team. The cherries first ferment for 60 hours in sealed tanks under anaerobic conditions that enhance fruit-forward yeast activity. Then, coffee cherry must from a previous fermentation acts as a starter culture for a second 24-hour fermentation, producing a complex, clean cup with vibrant fruity notes.

In the wake of the COVID pandemic, coffee people of all stripes were looking to come out of the isolation to reignite, reinvigorate and reconnect. At the 2022 SCA Expo in Boston, some of us on the Yellow Rooster team were invited to the IWCA Colombia chapter cupping, where we tasted some truly exceptional and differentiated coffees, many of which were produced by Ana Maria Donneys. There was an immediate connection! We exchanged contact information, and returned to our respective homes with hope for the future.

It was then in September of 2023 that we traveled to Medellín, Colombia for the Producer Roaster Forum (PRF). Ana approached our booth at the convention with a big smile that said “Remember me??” We immediately reconnected, and Ana laid it out straight: “Guys, I’ve been trying to do this on my own, but I need a partner. I want to take my coffee to the USA, and I want to do it with you.” Humbled and honored, we began to devise a plan.

About a month later, we were again in Colombia. We headed to Armenia, Quindío with the plan to dedicate our time to visit Ana’s project, which she calls “Primitivo Coffee” in honor of her grandfather Primitivo Correal Barrios. Primitivo’s operation is comprised of five separate farms just beyond the town of Circasia. After a tour of a few of the farms, including a staff lunch of sancocho that we shared with some of the farm personnel, we made our way to the cupping lab. Nine coffees in total, three in each category of washed, honey and natural. The truth is, we couldn’t have gone wrong with any of the coffees, but since it was our first exercise with Ana, we chose our favorite from each category and made our commitment.

In this process, named Tropical Ranger by the Primitivo team, Caturra variety coffee is placed in sealed tanks, creating an anaerobic environment. Because of this, certain bacteria that cause spoilage can’t grow, while the yeast that creates fruity flavors works very efficiently. This first stage lasts for 60 hours.

Then, the coffee cherry liquid run-off (mossto) from a previous fermentation acts like a strong “starter” fuel full of active microbes for the next stage, where fresh coffee cherries are added to this liquid, fermentation starts quickly and finishes in a controlled way. The second stage lasts 24 hours.